GLOSSARY

A guide through the vast world of gemstones and fine jewellery.

If you’d like to know more about any of the jewellery terms we talk about here or if anything sparks an idea for a bespoke commission, please contact us.

STONE CUTS / SHAPES

Glossary Item

Brilliant-cut

A brilliant-cut diamond indicates exactly 58 facets to allow maximum light refelction, and characterised by a round outline.

Emerald-cut

Emerald cut stones are either rectangular or square cut stones.

Old Mine-cut

Old-cut diamonds are antique and have been cut without the precision of modern technology.

Radiant-cut

The radiant-cut diamond combines a rectangular or square cut with cut corners.

Cushion-cut

The cushion-cut diamond combines a square cut with rounded corners.

Oval-cut

Oval-cut diamonds have an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance.

Princess-cut

The princess-cut is a straight sided square or rectangle outline with faceting for optimal light refraction.

Baguette-cut

Baguette cut stones are small, usually rectangular, step-cut diamonds with straight or tapered edges.

Asscher-cut

The Asscher cut is similar to an emerald cut, the Asscher cut's 58 facets are larger and wide-set.

Transitional-cut

The diamonds cut from the 1920-1940s, are often referred to as transitional-cut.

Tapered baguette-cut

Tapered baguette cut diamonds have long sides that angle inwards.

Trapeze-cut

A trapeze-cut diamond has four sides, with the bottom sides parallel to each other and the other sides inclined inwards.

Trillion-cut

The Trillion cut diamond features 50 facets and a triangular shape comprised of three equal sides.

Kite/Shield-cut

The kite-cut diamond features an elongated diamond with the two top sides inclined inwards meeting at the top point with the two even longer sides meeting up at the endpoint.

Eight-Cut/Single-Cut

The single cut diamond is also known as the eight-cut diamond because it has eight facets on the table and eight facets on the pavilion.

Old European-Cut

The old European cut was an early evolutionary stage in the progression toward the modern round brilliant.

Rose-Cut

Rose Cut Diamonds are different than the traditional 'Brilliant Cut' diamond we know in this modern era.

Half Moon Cut

Half moon diamonds are cut straight on one side and curved on the other side; they are essentially an oval diamond cut in half.

Cabochon

A cabochon is a gemstone which has been shaped and polished as opposed to faceted.

Sugarloaf

The sugarloaf stone looks particularly similar to the classic cabochon.

Gemstone Type

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Diamond

A Diamond is the only gem made of a single element, carbon.

Emerald

Emerald is the green to greenish blue variety of beryl, a mineral species that also includes aquamarine as well as beryls in other colours.

Sapphire

The name “sapphire” belongs to the mineral species corundum that’s not red and doesn’t qualify as ruby.

Ruby

Ruby is the most valuable variety of the corundum mineral species, which also includes sapphire.

Pearl

Perhaps the best-loved gems of all time, pearls—both natural and modern cultured pearls—occur in a wide variety of colours.

Aquamarine

Aquamarine is the green-blue to blue variety of the mineral beryl.

Rose Quartz

Quartz is one of the most common minerals on earth.

Garnet

Garnets are a set of closely related minerals that form a group, resulting in gemstones in almost every colour.

Opal

Opal is known for its unique display of flashing rainbow colours called play-of-colour.

Tourmaline

Tourmalines have one of the widest colour ranges of any gem species, occurring in various shades of virtually every hue.

Smokey Quartz

Smoky quartz is a colour-variety of crystalline quartz.

Jade

Two different gem materials can correctly be called jade. Jadeite is one of them, and the other is nephrite. Both are actually metamorphic rocks made up of tiny interlocking mineral crystals.

Lemon Quartz

Lemon quartz is created by heating amethyst, yellow quartz and iron together at extremely high temperatures.

Spinel

Spinel, like garnet and diamond, is singly refractive, with the same physical properties in all crystal directions.

Tanzanite

Tanzanite is the violet blue to blue violet variety of the mineral zoisite.

Topaz

Topaz is allochromatic, which means that its colour is caused by impurity elements or defects in its crystal structure rather than by an element of its basic chemical composition.

Citrine

Citrine - the transparent, pale yellow to brownish orange variety of quartz - is rare in nature. In the days before modern gemmology, its tawny colour caused it to be confused with topaz.

Peridot

Peridot is the gem variety of the mineral olivine. Its chemical composition includes iron and magnesium, and iron is the cause of its attractive yellowish green colours.

Amethyst

Amethyst is the purple variety of the quartz mineral species.

Moonstone

Moonstone is a variety of the feldspar group mineral orthoclase.

Onyx

Onyx is a type of chalcedony, which is itself a form of microcrystalline quartz.

Star Sapphire

Star sapphire is a rare and unique variety of the natural Sapphire gemstone that displays a star-like effect (asterism) on the surface when viewed under a direct light source.

Star Ruby

Star ruby is a rare variety of ruby gemstone that contains dense, microscopic rutile inclusions.

Fancy Coloured Diamonds

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Pink Diamond

Pink diamonds contain graining lines within their atomic structure caused by pressure beneath the Earth’s surface.

Purple Diamond

Purple diamonds are coloured by minute graining within the diamond structure.

Blue Diamond

Blue diamonds represent only 0.1% of all natural fancy coloured diamonds, making them extremely rare and valuable.

Green Diamond

Green diamonds are typically light in town and low in saturation. Their colour often appears muted, with a greyish or brownish cast.

Yellow Diamond

Yellow diamonds are the second most common natural fancy colour.

Orange Diamond

Ranging from pale translucent saffron to fiery autumnal hues, natural fancy orange diamonds are predominantly found in South Africa.

Red Diamond

Natural red fancy colour diamonds are the rarest of the coloured diamond collection and are highly valued.

Brown Diamond

Brown is the most common natural fancy colour diamond and also the earliest to be used in jewellery.

Black Diamond

Black diamonds differ from other fancy coloured diamonds, as these coloured diamonds are usually formed by chemical impurities present during the diamond’s composition.

Grey Diamond

Grey diamonds aren’t just white diamonds with less of a sparkle.

Salt & Pepper Diamond

Salt and Pepper diamonds are highly included. Salt-and-pepper diamonds is a diamond with inclusions that appear black and white.

The 4 C’s

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Cut

Cut refers to how well a diamond's facets interact with light.

Colour

Colour refers to the natural tint inherent in white diamonds.

Clarity

Clarity is a measure of the purity and rarity of the diamond, graded by the visibility of these characteristics under 10-power magnification.

Carat

Carat refers to the weight of a diamond, not the size, because carat weight can be deceptive.

MOH’S SCALE

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MOH's Scale of Hardness

Moh’s hardness, rough measure of the resistance of a smooth surface to scratching or abrasion, expressed in terms of a scale devised (1812) by the German mineralogist Friedrich Moh’s.

Anatomy of a Ring

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Anatomy of a Ring

Anatomy of a Stone

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Anatomy of a Stone

Handmade Vs Cast

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Handmade

Handmade jewellery involves working with metal from scratch using a very high level of craftsmanship.

Cast

The casting method involves pouring molten metal into molds.

Lab Grown, Synthetic & Diamond Simulants

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Diamond Simulants

Lab Grown/Synthetic Diamonds

Lab Grown/synthetic diamonds are created in a laboratory or factory rather than occurring in nature and mined from the earth.

Metal Type

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Gold

The gold content also known as fineness is a measure of a precious metal’s purity, and it’s based on parts per thousand (ppt).

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is naturally yellow in colour. However, as pure gold is very soft it is usually mixed with alloy metals such as copper and zinc.

Rose Gold

Rose gold is made by alloying pure gold with copper and silver.

White Gold

White gold is made by alloying pure gold with white metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. Usually with a rhodium coating.

Platinum

Platinum is usually mixed with other similar metals such a palladium group metals (palladium, iridium, ruthenium, rhodium and osmium).

Silver

Silver is made by alloying pure silver with copper to make it stronger usually known as sterling silver.

9ct, 14ct, 18ct & 24ct Gold

9ct gold is 37.5% pure gold with 62.5% alloying metals. When stamped or hallmarked you will see 9KT or 375.

Rhodium plating

Rhodium is a precious metal that is in the family of platinum.

Enamel

Enamel in jewellery and decorative work goes by a few names—vitreous enamel, porcelain enamel, and painted glass.

ERAs

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Diamond Simulants

Lab Grown/Synthetic Diamonds

Lab Grown/synthetic diamonds are created in a laboratory or factory rather than occurring in nature and mined from the earth.

Victoria Era

Victorian era (1837 to 1901): Yellow gold engagement rings and rose gold engagement rings were popular during the Victorian era.

Art Nouveau

Art Nouveau Era (1890-1914): French for “new art,” Art Nouveau was a radical departure from historic revival styles.

Edwardian Era

Edwardian era (1900 to 1915): Platinum was typically used in Edwardian era engagement rings.

Art Deco

Art Deco era (1920s and 1930s): We think of Art Deco as cool and sophisticated, so it’s no wonder that white metal was popular during this period.

Retro Era

Retro era (1940s): Warmth, boldness and colour were signatures of this period. These designs had a sculptural quality that featured bold lines and geometric shapes softened with curves.

Birthstones

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January

Those born in January are lucky to have the beautiful and diverse garnet as their birthstone.

February

If you were born in February, your birthstone is amethyst – the purple variety of quartz that has captivated mankind for millennia.

March

Aquamarine and bloodstone, March’s two birthstones, are very different when it comes to appearance, but they share a similar reputation for protecting one’s well-being.

April

Those born in April are lucky enough to call this scintillating gem, a symbol of clarity and strength, their birthstone.

May

Emerald, the birthstone for May, has been beloved for millennia, evoking rebirth and renewal.

June

If you were born in the month of June, you are lucky enough to have three birthstones to call your own.

July

Ruby is the July birthstone – and it’s one of the most coveted of gems.

August

Peridot, spinel and sardonyx are the three birthstones for August.

September

The September birthstone is sapphire – a gem that’s been cherished for thousands of years.

October

Those born in October enjoy two spectacular birthstones to commemorate their birthdays – opal and tourmaline.

November

Those with November birthdays have two beautiful birthstones to choose from: topaz and citrine.

December

If you had to pick one December birthstone, which would it be: tanzanite, turquoise or zircon?

Coloured Stone Treatments

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Diamond Simulants

Lab Grown/Synthetic Diamonds

Lab Grown/synthetic diamonds are created in a laboratory or factory rather than occurring in nature and mined from the earth.

Heat Treatment

The exposure of a gem to high temperatures for the purpose of altering its colour and/or clarity.

Bleach Treatment

A chemical used to alter / reduce a component of, or the entire colour, of a porous gem. Some gemstones are bleached and then dyed, a form of “combination treatment.”

Surface Coating

Altering a gem’s appearance by applying a colouring agent like paint to the back surfaces of gems (a treatment known as “backing”), or paint applied as a coating to all or a portion of a gemstone’s surface with the effect of altering the colour.

Dying

Introducing coloured dyes into porous or fractured gems to change their colour.

Fracture or Cavity Filling

Filling surface-reaching fractures or cavities with a glass, resin, wax or oil to conceal their visibility and to improve the apparent clarity of gem materials, appearance, stability, or in extreme cases—to add to a slight amount of weight to a gem.

High pressure, High temperature (hpht) Treatment

Heating a diamond to high temperatures under high confining pressures to remove, or change its colour.

Impregnation

The surface of a porous gemstone is permeated with a polymer, wax or plastic to give it greater durability and improve its appearance.

Irradiation

Exposure of a gem to an artificial source of radiation to change its colour.

Laser Drilling

This involves using a narrow focused beam of laser light to burn an open channel from the surface of a diamond to reach dark inclusions.

Lattice Diffusion

The penetration of certain elements into the atomic lattice of a gemstone during heat treatment, with the objective of changing or accentuating its colour.

Fluorescence

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Fluorescence

Fluorescence is the visible light some diamonds emit when they are exposed to invisible ultraviolet (UV) rays.

RING TYPES

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Diamond Simulants

Lab Grown/Synthetic Diamonds

Lab Grown/synthetic diamonds are created in a laboratory or factory rather than occurring in nature and mined from the earth.

Cluster/Daisy ring

In a cluster setting, smaller diamonds are set closely together to resemble a larger diamond. A cluster ring can contain a large center stone or a group of stones of equal size.

Boat ring

A cluster of stones are set to form a marquise, or boat shaped, head of the ring.

Etruscan ring

An Etruscan style ring is inspired by the ancient jewellery of Etruscan civilizations predating the Romans.

Eternity ring

A simple band set with a continuous line of identically cut gemstones. Traditional symbolism of eternity rings alludes to never-ending love for the wearer.

Bombé ring

A ring design with an oversized rounded and curving form, a style made popular in the Edwardian era and influenced trends of the 1950-1970's.

Five-stone ring

A ring featuring five principle gemstones, typically graduated in size.

Three-stone ring

A ring featuring three principle gemstones, typically graduated in size.

Halo ring

A ring setting that encircles a gemstone with a single halo of smaller stones. A popular choice to visually increase the size of a center stone.

Georgian Cut-Down Setting

A crimped/gathered collet setting which was often cut down between the crimped/gathered metal sections to create claw/prong-like protrusions;

Solitaire ring

A ring featuring a single principle stone.

Target ring

A style developed in the Edwardian era with a distintive appearance of concentic radiating rows of gemstones from a principle center stone.

Gypsy ring

A Victorian era design, with typically 1-5 recessed stones where the surface of the mount is virtually flush with the top of the gemstone. Oringinally a token of friendship, made popular today as a hardwearing option for setting gemstones.

Carved Half Hoop Ring

The carved half hoop ring style was exceedingly popular and fashionable during the Victorian era.

SETTINGS

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Channel Setting

Channel setting is a distinctive look created when accent stones are set into a grooved channel and laid edge-to-edge in a row. This design protects the gemstones, making this setting style ideal for daily wear.

Tension Setting

Minimal setting where a gemstone is held in the tension between two pieces of metal. Gemstone appears to float with optimal light access. This setting is the least secure and will need proper attention when wearing.

Pavé setting

Pavé settings typically include multiple rows of interlocking stones, originating from the word pavement in French.

Micro setting

Micro setting refers to a microscopic distance between stones, using small stones to give the illusion of a fully gem-studded and even surface.

Thread and Grain/Bead and Bright-cut setting

A technique used to cover metal with small gemstones. Small prongs, or "beads" are used to keep stones in place along the band or surface.

Claw-setting

Typically 3-6 prongs secure the stone, depending on the size of the gemstone. The prongs can vary in thickness for security and this setting exposes the gemstone to a large amount of light.

Bezel/rub-over setting

A rim of metal encapsulates the stone, providing the utmost level of security. Gemstones are protected from accidental damage as this setting is the most hard-wearing.